The Allure of Oud Chips: A Fragrant Wood Prized in Perfumery

The Allure of Oud

Oud, also known as agarwood, is a fragrant resinous wood that has captivated people for centuries. Derived from the Aquilaria tree native to Southeast Asia, oud is formed when the tree becomes infected with a type of mold. As a defense mechanism, the Aquilaria tree produces a dark resin within its wood, which causes the wood to become extremely dense and fragrant. The resulting oud wood is highly prized in perfumes, incense, and traditional medicine.

What Gives Oud Its Signature Scent?

The unique scent profile of oud comes from special organic compounds produced by the Aquilaria tree called sesquiterpenes. These compounds give oud its characteristic warm, earthy, balsamic fragrance that is unlike anything else. Once the infected wood is harvested, oud chips or dust are produced by grinding down the resinous heartwood. Oud oil can also be steam distilled from the wood to concentrate its essence.

The History of Oud

Oud has a long and storied history, particularly in the Middle East and Asia where Aquilaria trees grow natively. One of the earliest mentions of agarwood comes from Sanskrit texts over 3000 years old referencing the fragrant wood. Oud quickly became integral to cultural and religious traditions in the region, used to scent sacred spaces and high-end fabrics. By the 11th century, the trade of the precious oud wood had expanded all the way to Europe thanks to Arab merchants along the spice route.

Oud in Perfumery

Modern perfumers continue to prize oud as an incredibly versatile fragrance ingredient. A little bit of oud goes a long way, as it has an enormous scent presence. It acts as the base for hundreds of perfume compositions, adding an exotic undertone. Natural oud is very expensive, so many perfumers also use oud fragrance oils synthesized in a lab to mimic the signature smell. These more affordable oud chip fragrance oils make it possible for small indie perfumers to experiment with the note.

Oud Notes and Accords

There are many ways to categorize the complex fragrance of oud. It generally has a warm, sweet top note followed by earthy, nutty undertones. The overall impression is smooth yet bold. Perfumers may accent oud with notes like rose, saffron, amber, or sandalwood. Certain odor descriptors are also commonly used such as:

• Smoky
• Woody
• Balsamic
• Spicy
• Leathery

There are even multiple categories of oud oil depending on the region and grade of wood. For example, one popular variety is Cambodi Oud which has a strong emphasis on earthy, medicinal notes.

Can You Wear Oud in Summer?

Traditionally oud is considered a cold weather fragrance, but modern oud-based scents run the gamut. Many experts argue that oud can indeed work for the hot summer months. The trick is choosing an oud that has bright, uplifting top notes like ginger, citrus, or herbs to balance the heavier base. Combining oud with aquatic or oceanic notes can also keep it fresh. And of course, applying lightly is wise in warmer weather when fragrances tend to project more strongly from the skin.

The Allure of Oud Chips

Oud chips allow perfumers to add the complexity of oud without breaking the bank. Natural oud oil sells for thousands of dollars per kilo, while a kilo of oud chips may cost a few hundred dollars. Oud chips are shavings of real agarwood soaked in oud oil, then set in resin. High quality oud chips incorporate wood from trees over 100 years old. These resin-preserved chips give off that distinctive fermented aroma for years. A little goes a long way; perfumers use only grams of oud chips in a formula. This affordable way to incorporate real oud has opened many doors for artisan perfumery.

Sourcing Oud Chips

There are oud oil plantations that intentionally infect aquilaria trees to stimulate resin production, providing a renewable source. However, wild-harvested oud wood from centuries old trees retains the most prized fragrance notes. Responsible sourcing that supports local harvesting communities is important when purchasing oud chips. Malaysia, Vietnam, India, Cambodia, and Laos are common origins for agarwood. Prices fluctuate depending on grade, origins, and market availability each season.

Experimenting with Oud Chips at Home

For perfumery hobbyists, investing in some high quality oud chips is the easiest entry point to start formulating with real oud. Soak a few chips in carrier oils like fractionated coconut oil or jojoba oil to infuse the oil with oud's scent. This DIY oud oil can be used as a base for further experimentation. Try adding other essential oils like sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla oleoresin, tonka bean absolute, or patchouli to create custom oud accords. The possibilities are endless when blending with oud chips!

FAQs

What are oud chips?

Oud chips are small shavings of resinous agarwood soaked in oud oil. They allow perfumers to experience real oud fragrance in their formulations at a more affordable price point than pure oud oil.

How are oud chips made?

Chips are made by taking pieces of infected agarwood and soaking them in oud oil pressed from the same species of trees. The oil helps release and preserve the prized scent compounds in the wood.

Where does real oud wood come from?

The highest quality oud used in perfumery comes from century-old wild aquilaria trees native to Southeast Asian countries like Malaysia, Laos, and Vietnam. There are also some managed oud plantations producing wood.

Why use oud chips over oud oil?

Oud oil is extremely expensive, selling for thousands of dollars per kilo. Oud chips allow perfumers to work with real oud wood resins for a fraction of the price, making natural oud more accessible for small artisanal perfumeries.

Are oud chips ethically sourced?

It's important oud chips come from sustainable wild-harvesting or managed tree plantations that support local economies while preserving fragile forest ecosystems in Asia. Responsible sourcing maintains the future of the precious agarwood trees.