The Art and History of Delicate Bobbin Lace Textiles

The Art of Bobbin Lace

Bobbin lace is a delicate and beautiful form of lace that is made using bobbins and thread. It has a long and storied history, dating back hundreds of years. To create this lovely lace, artisans use wooden bobbins wound with cotton or linen thread to cleverly braid and twist the threads into intricate designs and patterns.

The Origins of Bobbin Lace

Bobbin lace originated in the 16th century in Italy and Flanders. At first, it was an expensive luxury only the very wealthy could afford. Bobbin lace was made by hand using fine threads and took incredible skill and patience to produce.

The bobbins were first made from bone, wood, ivory, or metal. Spinners would wind the bobbins with fine cotton or linen threads carefully measured and weighed for uniform thickness. This attention to detail is what allowed the early bobbin lace artisans to create such delicate and uniform lace patterns.

Bobbin Lace Spreads Across Europe

As the techniques for making bobbin lace improved over the next few centuries, the lace increased in popularity and spread across Europe. Expert lacemakers used an ever-growing variety of stitches and techniques to create amazingly intricate lace designs.

Each region developed their specialty style. Flanders and Italy became famous for their geometric continuous lace patterns. The English had a free-flowing style of floral lace, while France preferred makes intricate bobbin lace motifs of people, animals, leaves, flowers and more.

The Rise of Lace Schools

To maintain the high level of technique and quality, schools dedicated to teaching the art of bobbin lace sprung up across lacemaking centers. Students would study for years just to learn the hundreds of complex stitches, methods and designs to make refined bobbin lace.

These lace schools and skilled artisans turned Europe into a lacemaking dominance for the luxury markets from the 17th century into the early 20th century. No genteel household was complete without yards of fine handmade lace for collars, accessories, trimming and more. It was all made possible by masterful lace artisans and their ever-present companion – the bobbin.

Bobbins: Essential Lacemaking Tools

Bobbins are the foundation upon which all bobbin lace designs are built. They hold the threads in an orderly fashion and allow the lacemaker to quickly find and crossover the threads to create the lace patterns.

Styles of Bobbins

Bobbins come in two main styles – spangle bobbins and standard bobbins.

Spangle bobbins feature a bead or sequence that hangs from the bottom. The spangle helps weight the bobbin so it hangs straight. Spangles are decorative, but also make a sound when they clack together to help the lacemaker keep track of the threads. Fancier spangle bobbins may have attractions like bells or ribbons as well.

Standard bobbins have a straight cylindrical or slightly tapered shape from top to bottom. They may have small bumps, ridges or carvings for decorative style or to improve grip while working through intricate lacework. Standard bobbins vary quite a bit in length from 1 inch to over 3 inches long. The length adjusts the weight so longer bobbins work well with bulkier threads while shorter bobbins suit finer threads.

Bobbin Materials

Early bobbins were commonly made from animal bones. As they evolved, popular materials included wood, metal, ivory, porcelain, glass and plastic.

Wood remains one of the favored materials, especially fruitwoods like cherry or pear. Turners create rounded standard wooden bobbins on their lathes. Wood provides an affordable, attractive and lightweight-yet-sturdy bobbin option.

Metal bobbins offer a durable utility option. Brass, pewter, silver and steel have all been used over the years. Metal spangle bobbins are also common for their lovely appearance and pleasant clinking sound as the spangles strike together. They work well but are heavier than other materials.

Porcelain and glass bobbins are delicate yet beautiful choices loved by many lacemakers. They often feature colorful painted or enamel designs. Ivory is falling from favor due to ethical concerns over elephant ivory harvesting. Plastic provides an extremely affordable choice but lacks the beauty and appeal of natural materials. Many bobbin lace crafters enjoy collecting bobbins of many styles and materials!

Using the Bobbins

To create lace, the bobbins must first be wound evenly with thread and organized in sequence. A lace pillow provides a firm surface on which to pins sections to keep tension on threads as the intricate lace designs emerge.

The lacemaker uses the hanging bobbins to twist, cross and interweave the threads. Having the threads already measured out on wound bobbins allows for precision in forming the geometric lace patterns. The ability to easily count and move the bobbins gives complete control over the shaping process every step of the way.

As the lace designs grow, the lacemaker will keep incorporating more wound bobbins. A single lace piece may have hundreds of bobbins dangling by the end! The spangles or beads help each bobbin stay distinctly visible and manageable even in very complex and dense lace work.

Keep the Tradition Alive!

Bobbin lace peaked in popularity in the 19th century era of elaborate collars and accessories made from meters of bobbin lace trim. Although lace fashions changed in the 20th century, bobbin lace is still practiced around the world.

It remains an living art passed down to dedicated students who strive to keep the tradition alive in lace groups and guilds. From Estonia to Australia, the Philippines, across North and South America, Europe and beyond - artisans continue to create gorgeous historic and new bobbin lace patterns.

Bobbin lace requires focus, precision and patience. But working the bobbins through twisted journeys to form leaves, doilies, bookmarks and butterflies delivers a sense of timeless satisfaction. Our efforts honor the astonishing work of lacemakers creating beauty - one bobbin at a time - across centuries of textile history.

FAQs

Where did bobbin lace originally come from?

Bobbin lace originated in Italy and Flanders in the 16th century.

What materials are bobbins traditionally made from?

Early bobbins were made from materials like bone, wood, metal, ivory and porcelain. Modern bobbins can be wood, metal, plastic, glass and more.

Why do the bobbins have spangles and beads?

Spangles help weight the thread so the bobbins hang straight. The spangles also make a clicking sound as they move, helping the lacemaker keep track of threads.

How long does it take to learn bobbin lacemaking?

Traditionally it took lacemaking students years of study to learn the hundreds of complex stitches and techniques to create refined bobbin lace designs.

Is bobbin lace still being made today?

Yes, the tradition is being kept alive by dedicated lace guilds and artisans around the world determined to pass on the intricate craft of lacemaking using bobbins and thread.