The Lost Art of Mending and Patching Clothes by Hand

The Art of Patching Clothes by Hand

Mending and patching clothes is an age-old tradition that has seen a resurgence in recent years. Hand sewing a patch onto damaged or worn out clothing allows you to repair and extend the life of favorited wardrobe staples. With some basic sewing skills and supplies, patching clothes at home can be easy, fun and satisfying.

Why Patch Clothes?

There are many great reasons to learn how to patch clothes:

• It's sustainable - Patching reduces waste and the need to keep buying new clothes
• It saves money - Repairing damaged areas is much cheaper than replacing the whole garment
• It preserves memories - Clothing often holds sentimental value which patching allows you to keep enjoying
• It looks cool - Visible mending creates a unique distressed aesthetic and puts your own stamp on pieces
• It feels rewarding - Breathing new life into old clothes through your own handiwork is deeply fulfilling

Supplies for Hand Sewing Patches

Patching clothes requires just a few simple sewing essentials:

• Needles - Sharp, short needles work best for hand sewing. A variety of sizes like sharps or embroidery needles are useful
• Thread - Choose thread in a color close to your garment. Cotton and polyester threads have more strength
• Fabric scraps - Old clothes, sheets or curtains provide patch fabric. Pick a type and weight similar to the damaged garment
• Pins - Push pins or sewing pins to temporarily hold the patch in place as you sew
• Scissors - Sharp fabric scissors to neatly cut your patch fabric to size
• Seam ripper - To remove damaged fabric and loose threads from the garment
• Iron - A good iron makes patching easier by pressing seams flat

How to Hand Sew a Patch

Follow these simple steps for a professional looking patch repair:

1. Prepare the garment - Rip open any existing holes, cuts or thinning fabric so you have a clean edge for the patch to attach to. Use seam ripper and scissors. Iron garment flat.
2. Cut the patch - Place your chosen fabric over the damaged area and cut a patch at least 1.5cm wider on all sides. Cut diagonally across corners to reduce bulk.
3. Pin in place - Lay the patch over the damaged fabric, right sides together. Use pins to hold patch firmly in position.
4. Thread needle and knot - Cut thread approximately 90cm long. Thread needle and make a knot at the end by rolling thread between fingers.
5. Whip stitch edges - Insert needle from back through both layers of fabric. Keeping the thread loose, bring needle along edge of patch making small stitches approximately 3mm long.
6. Anchor patch - When you reach the end of an edge, make two small backstitches by sewing a couple of stitches in reverse. This anchors the threads.
7. Repeat around patch - Continue whip stitching along all sides of the patch until fully attached. Knot threads at the end and snip off any excess.
8. Neaten with iron - Place patch side down on ironing board and gently press. Let cool then flip over and press right side too.

Patch Placement

For the best results, consider the placement of your patch:

• On knees or elbows - Place patches on the inside to prevent further friction damage
• Across small holes - Position patch behind hole so it shows when garment is worn
• On large rips - Sew patch to one side of tear for visible mending style
• To reinforce seams - Patch along seam lines to strengthen stretched or fragile fabric

Patch Shapes and Patterns

Get creative with different patch shapes and fabrics:

• Circles or shapes - Cut patches into circles, hearts or other fun shapes
• Mixed fabrics - Combine different fabrics like denim, lace or flannel for eclectic patches
• Match the garment - Use patches in similar colors and patterns to blend in
• Visible mending - Pick contrasting colors to highlight and embellish the repair
• Words or motifs - Printed or embroidered patches add interest and decoration

Alternatives to Hand Sewn Patches

For those without sewing skills or patience for hand stitching, alternative patching methods include:

• Iron-on patches - These have a heat adhesive backing to fuse them onto clothing
• Sewing machine - Much quicker than hand sewing if you have access to a machine
• Fusible interfacing - Bonds fabric layers together when pressed with an iron
• Fabric glue - Works on some fabrics, less durable than stitching
• Patchwork - Cover larger holes by sewing in a piece of coordinating fabric

The Revival of Visible Mending

Patching clothes used to be a humble necessity, but today the practice has evolved into an artform known as visible mending. This trend celebrates the beauty in repairing and prides itself on prominently displaying mends rather than disguising them.

Visible Mending Movement

The visible mending movement emerged alongside broader maker and sustainability cultures. Key drivers include:

• Rejecting fast fashion and disposability
• Finding satisfaction in repairing belongings by hand
• Appreciating imperfections and signs of wear
• Uncovering the history and memories woven into garments

Japanese Boro textiles and the ancient Indian art of Kantha embroidery have provided inspiration for the visible mending aesthetic.

Visible Mending Techniques

Some popular visible mending techniques include:

• Sashiko - A traditional Japanese stitching style using contrasting thread in geometric patterns
• Embroidery - Decorative stitches in floral designs or motivational words
• Darning - Weaving threads across holes in intricate loops and crosses
• Patchwork - Mixing and layering contrasting fabric swatches for patchwork effect
• Shadow patching - Placing patches behind holes or thinning fabric so they subtly show through

Getting Started with Visible Mending

To start practicing visible mending:

1. Collect supplies - Needles, thread, scissors, fabric scraps, embroidery floss etc
2. Start on small holes and tears - Less visible areas are good for beginners to build confidence
3. Pick a simple stitch - Try backstitch, running stitch or whip stitch to get comfortable hand sewing
4. Have fun with colors - Mix thread colors and fabrics for pops of color
5. Start slow and small - Build up your visible mending skills on practice pieces before tackling more valuable garments
6. Relax and enjoy the process - Don't worry about perfection, the beauty is in the imperfections!

Sustainable Fashion - Buying Less and Making Do

Learning traditional mending skills helps reduce waste and counter the damaging impacts of fast fashion. By valuing quality craftsmanship and repairing belongings to extend their lifespan, we move away from a disposable culture towards more mindful and sustainable consumption.

The Ugly Truth of Fast Fashion

Modern mainstream fashion relies on unethically quick production and encourages constantly buying cheap, disposable clothes. This fast fashion model is incredibly wasteful and exploitative.

Issues include:

• Environmental damage from materials production, manufacturing and textile waste
• Labor exploitation such as unsafe factories and poverty wages
• Waste from discarded clothes after short lifespans
• Pollution from microplastics shed during washing
• Landfill overflow and incineration of unwanted garments

Embracing Slow Fashion

In response, the slow fashion movement promotes more ethical and sustainable practices including:

• Buying better quality, long lasting clothes in classic styles
• Supporting fair trade and local makers over mass production
• Repairing, reworking and mending existing items
• Passing garments on to others or donating rather than discarding
• Opting for natural, recycled and biodegradable materials

Mending Skills for Sustainable Living

Learning traditional mending techniques helps embrace a slow fashion lifestyle. Benefits include:

• Reducing consumption and waste by extending garment lifespan
• Saving money by repairing rather than replacing items
• Connecting with clothing through the time and care of repairs
• Keeping textiles circulating and out of landfill
• Preserving precious memories and sentimental value

By patching, darning, embellishing and caring for our belongings, we move closer towards a more mindful, ethical and sustainable relationship with fashion.

FAQs

What supplies do I need for hand sewing patches?

You'll need a sewing needle, thread, fabric for patches, pins, scissors, a seam ripper and an iron. Choose a needle with a sharp point and thread that matches your garment. Pick patch fabric in a similar weight and type to the damaged area.

Where is the best placement for patches?

Patches on knees, elbows or other high-friction areas should go on the inside to prevent further wear. Small holes can be covered by a patch behind them. Place patches along seams to reinforce them. For visible mending, position them prominently on the outside.

What are some basic hand sewing stitches for patching?

Whip stitch and running stitch are simple stitches to hand sew patches. Backstitch creates a stronger hold. Blanket stitch finishes raw edges neatly. Use embroidery stitches for decorative visible mending.

Is it OK to put patches on expensive or formal clothes?

Visible patching adds character to any garment. Start out practicing on old t-shirts to build confidence. On more valuable pieces, place patches discreetly on inner linings or use matching fabrics if you prefer a subtle repair.

How long does hand sewing a patch take?

Hand sewing a patch takes 15-30 minutes for a beginner but faster with practice. The time varies based on the patch size, fabric and stitching technique. Take your time to make neat, even stitches for a quality result.