Rolex Ladies Datejust 69173 with Diamond Bezel - Rare Vintage Watch

Introducing the Rolex Ladies Datejust 69173 with Diamond Bezel

The Rolex 69173 is a classic yet rare reference in the popular Datejust line, highly coveted among collectors for its exquisite details. Most notably, reference 69173 features a stunning diamond bezel paired with an opulent Mother of Pearl dial. This elegant combination gives the Datejust an eye-catching jewelry aesthetic, perfect for the sophisticated woman.

History of the Rolex Ladies Datejust

Rolex first introduced the Datejust model in 1945 as the world's first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch with a date display. The Datejust was initially targeted at men but later evolved into a unisex model. The first Lady Datejust was released in 1957 with a smaller 26mm case to better fit female wrists.

Over the decades, Rolex continued refining the Lady Datejust with both technical updates and design enhancements. Some of the most iconic Lady Datejust references include the 69173, 69178, 69179 and 69174, all issued between the late 1980s to mid 1990s. Each reference featured unique dial and bezel combinations that gave the watch a more luxurious aesthetic.

Details of the Rolex 69173 Datejust

The Rolex 69173 Datejust was manufactured from 1987 to 1993, with an elegant 26mm stainless steel case paired with an 18k white gold bezel fully embellished with diamonds. The diamond bezel gives the watch an instant jewelry quality that pops against the monochromatic steel case and bracelet.

The slate grey dial is where the 69173 truly shines. Rolex fitted the watch with a stunning Mother of Pearl dial in a subtle silver-grey sunburst color. Depending on how light catches the dial, it radiates a lush rainbow iridescence that gives the watch a different look from every angle.

The dial configuration includes the iconic Rolex Datejust design elements - the date window at 3 o'clock with Cyclops magnification lens, slender baton hour markers, and Mercedes style hands in 18k white gold to match the bezel. The watch achieves a seamless blend of functional luxury.

Scarcity of the Ref. 69173 Mother of Pearl Datejust

One key factor that makes the Rolex 69173 so covetable is its scarcity. Rolex produced the reference for only six years, making it rarer than many other Datejust models that remained in catalogues for decades. On top of its short production run, the factory fitted very few examples with the diamond and Mother of Pearl configuration.

Most Lady Datejust models of the era used more commonplace dials in colors like silver, white, champagne, or black. The Mother of Pearl dial stands out as a special trait that gives the watch prestige and distinction. For these reasons, the reference 69173 is highly sought after by collectors, especially in mint condition.

Current Value and Collectibility

On the pre-owned market today, the Rolex 69173 typically sells for around $6,000 to $9,500 depending on the condition. Examples that come with original boxes and papers tend to fetch prices in the higher end of that range. The watch carries a premium over standard steel and gold Lady Datejust models due to the diamond bezel and rare dial.

In the past few years, prices for the 69173 reference have steadily increased as more collectors rediscover vintage Rolex references with unique histories. Because Rolex made so few of these Original Mother of Pearl models, their rarity will likely cause values to continue rising over time.

The ref. 69173 Oyster Perpetual Datejust carries important horological significance as an early ladies luxury sports watch. It encapsulates everything that makes Rolex so iconic - peerless craftsmanship, versatile everyday wearability, and sophisticated aesthetics. For both women and men who appreciate rare vintage Rolex references, the 69173 with diamond bezel and Mother of Pearl dial represents a pinnacle find.

Buying Guide for the Rolex 69173 Diamond Bezel Datejust

For collectors interested in acquiring the highly coveted Rolex 69173 Datejust, understanding how to assess condition and spot fakes is key. Here is an overview on what to look for when shopping for one of these rare vintage Rolex references.

Where to Buy

The 69173 trades hands most frequently through online vintage Rolex dealers, auction houses, and enthusiast forums like Reddit. Prices will generally be highest when buying from a reputable vintage Rolex dealer that thoroughly vets their watches. Auction houses like Christie’s offer curated selections but charge buyer premiums.

Forum sales can yield deals on good condition 69173 models, but lack formal authentication and the security of a certified dealer. Exercise maximum caution when buying through informal channels, as stellar fakes of the 69173 abound.

Authentication Points

Genuine Rolex 69173 watches have serial numbers engraved between E9 million to R8 million, dating them to 1987-1993 productions. The caseback will be stamped “69173” above the serial. Meticulously examine that all parts match the correct reference 69173.

Real Diamond bezels align flawlessly with the case and feature evenly sized and spaced diamonds. Inspect that the coronet at 12 o’clock sits straight. Cyclops lenses should magnify the date precisely 2.5x without distortion. Mother of Pearl dials exhibit a lush rainbow iridescence - any dullness or flatness indicates a replacement dial.

What to Avoid

One pitfall to avoid is overpolished watches. Since the Rolex 69173 Datejust has a relatively small 26mm case, past polishing can quickly degrade the crisp angles of lugs and sharp edges on bracelet links. Try to source examples with thick case sides and intact beveled edges indicating minimal wear.

Reject any watches with incorrect parts like undersized bracelets, swapped bezels, or engraved rehauts. Replacements parts drastically reduce collectibility. Be wary of fakes - Rolex 69173 forgeries have the right look but feel lightweight with cheaper metals and stones.

Investment Outlook

As a rare and finite vintage Rolex reference in high demand, the Rolex 69173 diamond bezel Datejust makes an excellent financial investment. Models in excellent condition with boxes and papers have the best liquidity and upside potential. The watch will likely continue appreciating over the next decade as wealthy collectors compete over the scarce surviving examples.

For investors and collectors alike, the 69173 represents the pinnacle of Rolex’s luxurious approach to watchmaking coupled with extraordinary rarity. It’s the ultimate Rolex for the female connoisseur who appreciates timeless elegance.

FAQs

What makes the Rolex 69173 so rare and valuable?

The 69173 is rare due to its short 6-year production run and special diamond bezel with Mother of Pearl dial combination. Very few Datejust references have this exquisite configuration, making the 69173 highly coveted and valuable amongst collectors.

What functions does the 69173 Datejust have?

The Rolex 69173 Datejust tells the time and date. It has a sweep seconds hand and magnified date display with Cyclops lens. The automatic movement is self-winding and certified as a chronometer for accuracy.

What size is the 69173 Datejust?

The Rolex 69173 Datejust has a 26mm stainless steel case, making it a good fit for most female wrist sizes. The size is smaller than the standard men's Datejust models.

Does the 69173 Datejust come in other dial colors?

Apart from the prized Mother of Pearl dial, Rolex also produced the 69173 with silver, champagne, white and black dials. However, the Mother of Pearl configuration is by far the rarest and most sought-after.

What kind of bracelet does the reference 69173 use?

The 69173 Datejust is paired with a classic Rolex Jubilee bracelet in stainless steel. The Jubilee bracelet has a 5-piece link construction and was designed specially for the Datejust model.