History and Influence of Avant-Garde Number (N)ine Sweaters in Japanese Fashion

The History and Style of Number (N)ine Sweaters

Number (N)ine is a highly influential Japanese fashion label that was founded in 1997 by designer Takahiro Miyashita. The brand is known for its avant-garde, deconstructed aesthetic that blends punk, goth and high fashion influences. Number (N)ine developed a cult-like following among fans of avant-garde Japanese fashion.

Takahiro Miyashita's Early Inspirations

As a student at Bunka Fashion College in the 1990s, Miyashita was inspired by Western punk and goth acts like Joy Division and The Cure. He brought these darker sensibilities to his early Number (N)ine collections, which often incorporated religious imagery and Goth motifs. Miyashita was also inspired by Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto who spearheaded the avant-garde movement in Japanese fashion.

Number (N)ine's Gothic-Punk Style

Number (N)ine's collections demonstrate Miyashita's skill for blending disparate influences like Victorian religious imagery, punk rock, and traditional Japanese garments. The brand's look is identifiable by the juxtaposition of opposites: feminine and masculine, Eastern and Western, elegant and rugged.

Number (N)ine sweaters often feature deconstructed elements like frayed hems, unfinished edges, and torn holes that nod to punk sensibilities. Miyashita frequently used religious symbols like crucifixes and halo embroideries that reveal his fascination with Christian iconography and goth culture.

Sweater Styles and Motifs

Some of the most iconic Number (N)ine sweaters include:

• Oversized cable knit and fisherman sweaters with dropped shoulders and unfinished hems
• Cardigans and pullovers with crucifix motifs and religious iconography
• Intarsia designs featuring occult symbols like pentagrams and all-seeing eyes
• Bold English text and Gothic fonts used as graphic sweater designs
• Deconstructed and shredded sweaters that blend punk and grunge styles
• Sweaters featuring Japanese text and anime/manga imagery

These avant-garde sweaters demonstrate how Miyashita skillfully blended inspirations from music, religion, manga, and high fashion to create Number (N)ine's darkly romantic aesthetic.

Cult Following in Japanese Fashion

During the 2000s, Number (N)ine became one of the most influential brands in high fashion streetwear. The sweaters were particularly popular among Japanese youth subcultures like goth, punk, and manga fans who admired Miyashita's experimental blending of influences.

Number (N)ine was featured in influential Japanese fashion magazines like Fruits and gained a cult following among celebrities like Gackt, Mana, Kozue Akimoto, and Nozomi Sasaki who wore the brand's Gothic sweaters.

Collaborations

Number (N)ine collaborated with other influential avant-garde brands including:

• Yohji Yamamoto, blending Yamamoto's drapery and tailoring with Number (N)ine's punk deconstructions.
• Jun Takahashi's Undercover, marrying Takahashi's concepts and text with Miyashita's designs.
• Vivienne Westwood, combining Westwood's British punk with Miyashita's Japanese Gothic aesthetic.

These collaborations further cemented Number (N)ine's reputation at the forefront of high fashion streetwear in the 2000s and 2010s.

The End of Number (N)ine

After releasing 100 seasonal collections, Takahiro Miyashita announced the end of the Number (N)ine label in October 2009. The global recession made the brand financially unviable for its parent company. Miyashita re-emerged shortly after with a new label named The SoloIst that continues his explorations of punk deconstruction.

Number (N)ine's iconic sweaters remain sought after collector's items among fans of avant-garde Japanese fashion. Nearly 15 years after shutting its doors, the brand's influence still looms over today's streetwear and runway fashion that blend subcultural styles into high fashion designs.

The Legacy of Number (N)ine in Japanese Fashion

Despite its short lifespan from 1997 to 2009, Number (N)ine had an outsized influence in blending punk rock, gothic rock, and manga aesthetics with avant-garde fashion. Miyashita's sweaters demonstrated his innate understanding of using fashion as a form of self-expression for misfits and subcultures.

Number (N)ine's iconic sweaters with religious iconography and punk deconstructions remain some of the most coveted garments from 1990s and 2000s Japanese streetwear fashion. The label paved the way for future avant-garde Japanese brands like Facetasm and Sasquatchfabrix that continue to blend subcultural style with high fashion.

Nearly 15 years after Number (N)ine's shuttering, its legacy lives on through collectors willing to pay top dollar for the brand's Gothic-tinged sweaters. Miyashita's designs can be felt in Vetements' deconstructed streetwear and Givenchy's romantic punk collections, proving that Number (N)ine's influence still resonates across high fashion today.

FAQs

Who founded Number (N)ine?

Number (N)ine was founded in 1997 by Japanese designer Takahiro Miyashita.

What was Number (N)ine's aesthetic?

Number (N)ine blended Eastern and Western influences like punk, goth, and high fashion into avant-garde, deconstructed designs.

What types of motifs did Number (N)ine use?

Number (N)ine used religious symbols, occult images, manga graphics, and English text in their designs.

Why did Number (N)ine shut down?

Number (N)ine closed in 2009 due to financial struggles exacerbated by the global recession.

What was Number (N)ine's influence on fashion?

Number (N)ine pioneered a blend of Japanese streetwear and high fashion that inspired later avant-garde designers.