Art Deco Navette Rings - History, Styles, and Buying Tips

The History and Significance of Art Deco Navette Rings

Art deco navette rings, also known as navette-shaped rings, are a unique and iconic jewelry style that emerged during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s. The term "navette" comes from the French word for "little ship" and refers to the elongated, boat-shaped design of the rings. Navette rings are characterized by their elegant, symmetrical shape and often feature diamonds or other precious gemstones set in platinum or white gold.

The Art Deco period was a glamorous and indulgent time full of luxury, modernity, and creativity. As a reaction against the flowery Art Nouveau designs that preceded them, Art Deco pieces emphasized sleek, geometric lines and motifs inspired by machinery and technology. Navette rings perfectly encapsulated these sensibilities with their elongated silhouette mimicking the aerodynamic shape of an airplane or racing car.

The Origins of the Navette Ring

Though Art Deco helped popularize the style, navette rings first emerged in the late 19th century. Many attribute their design to the avant-garde French jewelers Fouquet and Boucheron, who drew inspiration from Ancient Egyptian and Indian jewelry. However, it was not until the 1920s that navette rings really took off, ushered into vogue by influential Parisian jewelers like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Cartier in particular is credited with elevating navette rings into an icon of Art Deco style. In 1929, they unveiled their Twin Navette ring featuring two diamond-encrusted navette motifs joined together by delicate ribbons of platinum. Its cutting-edge yet refined look made it an instant emblem of Jazz Age glamour. The popularity of Cartier's navette creations cemented the elongated navette shape as a cornerstone of Art Deco jewelry design.

The Navette Shape as an Expression of Modernism

The sleek, kinetic navette form was a perfect fit for the technologically advancing Art Deco era. Its streamlined silhouette embodied the dynamism and modernism of the age. As Art Deco spread internationally over the 1920s and 1930s, navette rings rapidly became a worldwide phenomenon.

The bold geometry and precision of navette rings also complemented the era's major art movements like Cubism, Futurism, and Purism. The interplay between the rings' symmetrical shape and contrasting gemstones resonated with the fragmented planes and geometric abstraction of modern art. This cultural synergy helped further popularize navette rings among progressive, fashionable women of the day.

Common Styles and Designs

While navette rings came in many variations, certain styles emerged as quintessential Art Deco pieces:

• Single Navette Rings: Solitary navette-shaped gemstones set lengthwise in sleek, minimalist settings.
• Double Navette Rings: Two navette motifs adjoined, popularized by Cartier.
• Ribbon Motif Rings: Navette shapes accented by delicate sculpted ribbons, another Cartier innovation.
• Geometric and Filigree Rings: Navettes complemented by geometric shapes and filigree metalwork.
• Engraved and Enamel Rings: Navettes with engraved sides or black enamel, mimicking onyx and hematite.

Diamonds reigned supreme during this era, but colored gemstones like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds were also common. Platinum was the metal of choice for its durability, elegance, and silvery white sheen that showcased the rings' geometric lines.

The Decline and Revival of Navette Rings

By the late 1930s, the Art Deco trend waned in favor of more organic, nature-inspired jewelry styles. Navette rings fell out of mainstream favor for decades. However, the retro revival culture of the 1970s and 80s brought Art Deco jewelry back into the spotlight. Contemporary designers drew fresh inspiration from vintage navette rings, reviving the style once more.

Today, original navette rings from the 1920s and 30s are highly coveted collector's items. Contemporary designers continue to pay homage to their heritage while putting modern spins on the iconic navette silhouette. The style remains a staple in engagement rings, cocktail rings, and other statement jewelry pieces.

Art Deco Navette Engagement Rings

For brides-to-be looking for a unique engagement ring, Art Deco navette rings offer vintage glamour and striking symmetry. A bold diamond or colored gemstone navette makes the perfect centerpiece for an engagement ring full of deco flair.

Solitaire navette rings highlight the elongated cut of the center stone. The navette diamond or gemstone typically ranges from 1 to 5 carats. Surrounding petite accent stones offer extra sparkle and enhance the central navette's silhouette.

Another option is a three-stone navette ring, with two smaller diamonds or gems flanking the dazzling center navette. This elegant arrangement evokes vintage cluster rings while maintaining focus on the eye-catching navette.

For added allure, ribbon and filigree detailing on the band mirrors classic deco motifs. Engraving on the sides or Art Deco numerals engraved inside the band provide an extra hint of timeless deco style. Platinum or white gold bands maintain the ring's sleek, streamlined look while symbolizing enduring love.

Beyond diamonds, sapphires and rubies make stunning alternatives for navette engagement rings. Sapphire's deep blue hue pops against the elongated shape. Fiery rubies offer eye-catching contrast against cool white metals.

For maximum brilliance, oval and emerald cut stones work best with the navette shape. Their elongated facets align seamlessly with the slender navette silhouette.

Benefits of Choosing a Navette Engagement Ring

There are many advantages to selecting an Art Deco navette engagement ring:

• Timeless and Elegant Look: Navette rings have an enduringly glamorous style rooted in a iconic era of jewelry design.
• Distinctive Shape: The navette cut stands out from standard round, oval, and square shapes for a unique look.
• Vintage Appeal: Perfect for brides drawn to retro and antique styles but want something modern.
• Elongating Effect: The navette shape flatters and elongates the finger.
• Bold Presence: The sharp silhouette commands attention, especially when paired with a sizable center gemstone.
• Balanced Symmetry: The navette creates a harmonious look, accentuating the central stone.

Art Deco navette engagement rings offer vintage charm and sophisticated style for the fashion-forward bride. Their striking elegance preserves their status as a timeless yet unexpected engagement ring choice.

Caring for Navette Rings

To keep navette rings looking their radiant best:

• Store in a safe place: Keep rings in a jewelry box away from harsh chemicals and heat that could damage gems and metals.
• Keep dry: Moisture can dull stones and degrade metal prongs.
• Clean routinely: Regular gentle cleaning maintains brilliance. Use a soft brush with mild soap and water.
• Take care wearing: Avoid rough activity that could bend prongs and cause lost stones.
• Check settings: Ensure all gems are secure in their settings and no prongs are damaged.
• Remove before showering: Exposure to soaps, lotions, and hot water can build up residue.
• See a jeweler yearly: Have ring inspected, cleaned, and repaired by a professional when needed.

Vintage and antique navette rings may require extra care as older settings can be more fragile. Have vintage rings examined for any weakness and reinforced by an experienced jeweler.

With periodic cleaning and careful wear, Art Deco navette rings can dazzle for decades to come. Their distinctive silhouette and irreplaceable vintage flair are worth preserving for a lifetime.

Buying Art Deco Navette Rings

For those seeking authentic navette rings or modern reinterpretations, purchasing tips include:

• Vintage and Antique Rings: Shop antique stores, auctions, or specialist online dealers for true vintage finds. Inspect pieces closely.
• Lab Documentation: For valuable antique rings, review any accompanying lab reports on gem weight, clarity, color, and cut quality.
• Reputable Retailers: Leading jewelers like Tiffany & Co., Damiani, and Brilliant Earth offer modern navette styles.
• Custom Design: Work with a jeweler to custom design a navette ring to your preferences.
• Quality Craftsmanship: Examine rings closely to ensure careful construction and secure gem settings.
• Try Different Sizes: Since the navette shape is narrow, slightly wider bands offer more comfort.
• Compare Online: Review return policies and consumer reviews when buying from web retailers.

From the Jazz Age through today, the sleek navette silhouette remains a sophisticated jewelry choice. With an eye-catching central gem and plenty of vintage sparkle, Art Deco navette rings make an elegant statement for modern brides and jewelry lovers alike.

FAQs

What does "navette" mean?

Navette means "little ship" in French. The term refers to the elongated boat-like shape of Art Deco rings from the 1920s and 30s.

What gems were used in antique navette rings?

Diamonds were the most popular, but other gems like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds were also common in Art Deco navette rings. Platinum was the preferred metal mounting.

How can I tell if a navette ring is an authentic antique?

Look for hallmarks like a jeweler's mark, karat stamps, or serial numbers. An official lab report will also verify age and gem details. Enlist a jeweler to inspect the setting's construction.

What is a good center stone size for a navette engagement ring?

Most vintage navette rings featured center stones between 1 to 5 carats. For modern rings, the stone should be large enough to balance the elongated navette shape.

Should I take special care of my navette ring?

Take care wearing vintage navette rings as the settings can be fragile. Have them professionally cleaned and inspected yearly. Store rings safely and avoid water exposure to preserve their condition.