History and Allure of the Iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Luxury Watch

The Fascinating History of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most iconic luxury sports watches in horology. Its distinctive octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet design make it instantly recognizable. The Royal Oak was a pioneer in stainless steel luxury watches when it debuted in 1972, and continues to be a popular model for Audemars Piguet today.

The Creation of the Royal Oak in 1972

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was conceived by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 1972. At the time, luxury watches were typically small and made of gold or platinum. Genta was tasked by Audemars Piguet to create an entirely new watch made of steel that would appeal to a younger generation.

Drawing inspiration from the octagonal portholes of British naval ships, Genta came up with the unique octagonal design of the Royal Oak. The structured steel case integrated seamlessly with the steel bracelet. No one had seen a luxury sports watch quite like it before.

When the Royal Oak debuted at the Basel Watch Fair in 1972, it was priced at 3,650 Swiss francs, the same as a gold Patek Philippe watch. The high price for a steel watch raised some eyebrows, leading to the nickname “Jumbo” for its 39mm case size. But the bold new Royal Oak was an immediate success, kicking off the luxury sports watch trend.

Evolution of the Royal Oak Over the Decades

In the years following its debut, Audemars Piguet introduced some variations of the original Royal Oak. This included a smaller midsize model and pieces set with gemstones. However, the core design codes established by Genta remained intact.

In 1977, Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak Offshore for diving and watersports. The Offshore had an even bolder 42mm case with exposed chronograph pushers and crown guards. It quickly became popular in its own right.

During the 2000s, Audemars Piguet brought in numerous complicated movements into the Royal Oak line, including perpetual calendars, tourbillons and minute repeaters. Yet even with the additions of new technology, the fundamental Royal Oak aesthetic has stayed true to its roots.

Notable Royal Oak Models

Within the Royal Oak family, there are several models that stand out for their importance and popularity:

• Royal Oak 15202 - The latest evolution of the original 39mm "Jumbo" Royal Oak. It retains the classic dimensions and aesthetics.
• Royal Oak Chronograph - Introduced in 1977, the Royal Oak Chronograph has sub-dials at 9 and 6 o'clock and date at 3 o'clock.
• Royal Oak Offshore Diver - With 300 meter water resistance, this rugged diving watch carries on the Offshore sports legacy.
• Royal Oak Tourbillon - First released in 1989, the tourbillon model combines high watchmaking with the signature Royal Oak case.
• Royal Oak Concept - The contemporary Concept series pushes the boundaries of materials and design for the Royal Oak.

The Royal Oak Bracelet and Finishing

While the octagonal bezel is key to the Royal Oak's appearance, the integrated bracelet is equally integral. The structurally-based link design plays off the bezel shape with intricate finishing.

Audemars Piguet uses physical finishing techniques on the Royal Oak bracelet that take master craftsmanship. This includes hand-chamfering, drawing and polishing. Tight tolerances result in no sharp edges or overlapping surfaces between links.

The naked eye finishes require steady hands and lots of time. But the resulting brushing and polished beveling elevate the Royal Oak bracelet to objects of mechanical art.

New Materials Developed for the Royal Oak

Traditionally made of stainless steel, Audemars Piguet has tested out many other materials to use for Royal Oak models over the years. This includes:

• White gold
• Rose gold
• Platinum
• Titanium
• Ceramic
• Carbon fiber

The newest material used for the Royal Oak is sintered carbon, an innovative alloy combining carbon and ceramic particles. Sintering fuses the materials together without melting for a ultra-durable and lightweight case.

Audemars Piguet's engineers are constantly experimenting to improve upon the performance and aesthetic appeal of the Royal Oak watch. The latest materials maintain the Royal Oak spirit while giving it a thoroughly modern edge.

The Allure of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

There are many reasons why the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has thrived and endured as a luxury watch icon for over 50 years:

• Its bold, angular design was hugely different from other watches when it debuted.
• The avant-garde use of steel as a luxury material changed perceptions.
• Continuous refinements and innovations have kept it feeling contemporary.
• The intricate craftsmanship gives each Royal Oak piece a true sense of hand-finishing.
• As one of the original luxury sport watches, it possesses an energetic spirit.
• The Royal Oak became linked to celebrity ambassadors like Arnold Schwarzenegger, Jay-Z and LeBron James.

But above all else, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak's confident sense of style and identity is what captures the imagination of watch lovers. The octagonal design found the perfect balance, managing to be both Casual and sophisticated.

The Royal Oak has many faithful collectors who appreciate its legacy and allure. For both seasoned watch aficionados and new converts discovering its magic, the Royal Oak continues to feel fresh even after 50 years.

Collecting Vintage and Modern Royal Oak Watches

The popularity of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watches on the secondary market reflects their enduring reputation. Vintage models can fetch very high prices at auction depending on age, condition and provenance.

For those looking to buy a Royal Oak, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Early Royal Oak references like the 5402 and 5522 are extremely rare and expensive.
• Well-preserved examples from the 1970s and 80s offer a more affordable vintage option.
• Modern steel Royal Oak models often trade above retail when in demand.
• Limited edition Royal Oak collaborations with retailers can have a premium.
• Be wary of any pieces with condition issues or documentation gaps.

The excitement around new Royal Oak releases also fuels the secondary market. Models utilizing high-end materials and complications trade hands quickly when they become available.

For collectors dreaming of owning an AP Royal Oak, the right combination of personal meaning, research, patience and timing is key. The journey to find that special Royal Oak can be an exciting adventure in itself.

FAQs

What is the size of the original Royal Oak?

The original Royal Oak ref. 5402 released in 1972 had a 39mm case size, which was considered quite large for a watch at that time. Its size led to the nickname “Jumbo”.

How much does a stainless steel Royal Oak cost?

The retail price of a new stainless steel Royal Oak 15202 today is around $30,000 USD. Prices on the secondary market are often higher when these models are in demand and unavailable at retailers.

What is the newest Royal Oak material?

Audemars Piguet recently introduced sintered carbon, an innovative material combining carbon and ceramic particles, for making ultra-durable and lightweight Royal Oak cases.

Why is the Royal Oak bracelet so special?

The integrated bracelet on the Royal Oak is hand-finished using techniques like chamfering, drawing and polishing. The intricate finishing results in seamless links and gives the bracelet a beautiful mechanical look.

Who designed the first Royal Oak?

The original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was designed by the renowned Swiss watch designer Gérald Genta in 1972. His iconic octagonal design for the Royal Oak has stood the test of time.