Tips for Sewing with Tricky Rib Knit Fabric | Sewing Tutorial

Introduction to Rib Knit Fabric

Rib knit fabric is a stretchy, lightweight knitted material that has a distinctive vertical ribbed texture. It is created by knitting alternating columns of ribs and wales, which gives rib knit its signature elasticity and texture. Rib knits are available in a variety of fibers like cotton, polyester, rayon, and spandex blends. They come in different weights - from lightweight fabrics perfect for t-shirts to heavier blends ideal for sweaters and athleticwear.

While the vertical ribs give rib knits their stretch and recovery, they also make the fabric prone to running. The ribs can easily be pulled out of shape. So sewing rib knit fabric requires some special handling to get the best results.

Tips for Sewing with Rib Knit Fabric

Use Ballpoint or Stretch Needles

Rib knits don't respond well to being pierced by sharp regular sewing machine needles. The needle can snag on the knitted ribs and cause runs or holes in the fabric. Using a ballpoint needle is essential for clean stitching. The rounded tip slips smoothly between the ribs instead of piercing them. Stretch needles also have a special scarf design to avoid snagging knits. Choose the right needle size for your fabric weight - thinner for lightweight, thicker for heavier knits.

Use Polyester or Woolly Nylon Thread

Cotton thread should be avoided with rib knits as it does not have any stretch. Polyester or woolly nylon thread has a bit of give that moves better with rib knit's stretch. Match the thread weight to the fabric weight. Heavier threads like topstitching thread work well with medium to heavy weight knits. They create visible stitches that almost mimic a coverstitch machine.

Sew with a Narrow Zigzag Stitch

Forget your regular straight stitch when sewing rib knits! A zigzag stitch with a narrow width and shortened length allows the seam to stretch with the fabric. The zigzag moves with the knit instead of popping stitches under stress. Make test samples to dial in the right zigzag width and length for each fabric weight. Typically a .5mm width x 1.5mm length works for lighter knits while a 1mm width x 2mm length handles heavier ribbing.

Use Light Presser Foot Pressure

Rib knits are easily distorted under too much pressure from the presser foot. Set your machine to the lightest pressure to keep the knit flat while sewing. You can even place a strip of tissue paper underneath the presser foot to reduce friction. Check your tension and rethread the top thread if you start seeing puckered seams.

Stabilize Shoulder Seams

The stretch in rib knits can lead to saggy, stretched out shoulder seams over time. Stay stitch 1/4" from the raw edge of seam allowances between the notches. This prevents the shoulder edge from stretching out later. You can also apply a knit stay tape along the seam line for added support.

Topstitch Hems

Allowing rib knit hems to hang loose leaves them vulnerable to unravelling. Finish raw edges with zigzag stitching or an overlock machine. Then topstitch the hem in place close to the edge rather than blind hemming. This keeps the ribbing flat and prevents wavy hems over time. Use a twin needle for a professional finish.

Interface Button Bands

Rib knit button bands can easily stretch out of shape from fastening and unfastening. Stabilize them by applying a knit interfacing before sewing bands on. Fuse a soft tricot interfacing to the wrong side of the band piece. Use stretch stitches and pull fabric taut as you sew bands on. The interfacing keeps everything stable.

Go Easy on Steam

While rib knits hold creases well, applying steam to set them can actually damage the ribbed texture. The intense heat relaxes the fibers too much, causing them to lose their springy shape. For creased seams and hems, finger press instead of ironing to avoid flattening ribs. Use a press cloth if steam is needed.

Rib Knit Fabric Garment Sewing Tips

Prewash Fabric

Like all knit fabrics, rib knits will shrink when washed. Always prewash and dry rib knit yardage before cutting out your pattern pieces. This allows the fabric to shrink before sewing so the finished garment doesn't distort out of shape later. Take note of any change in dimensions.

Cut On-Grain

While rib knits have great crosswise stretch, they have less give along the lengthwise grain. Follow grainlines marked on your pattern for optimal stretch. Cutting off-grain can make pieces twist and bias stretch uncomfortably. Use weights to prevent the slippery fabric from shifting as you cut.

Mind the Nap

If your rib knit has a distinct vertical nap or print direction, keep it consistent when laying out pattern pieces. Cut all pattern pieces moving in the same direction to avoid color variations or pattern mismatches. Use lots of pins and cut carefully to prevent distortions.

Reinforce Seams

Rib knit seams are under tension and can pop when stretched. Serging or zigzagging over raw edges is not enough. For heavy stress seams like side or inner leg seams, apply clear elastic tape along the stitching line as you sew. The elastic keeps seams strong while allowing full stretch recovery.

Hem Knits Before Laundering

Don't skip hemming your knit garment or the first wash will cause ravelling along raw edges. Turn up the hem, then edgestitch or topstitch to hold in place through laundering. Check your sewing machine manual for the best stretch stitch to use for hemming ribbing.

Sew Confident with Rib Knits

Rib knit fabric may require more thoughtful handling, but the results are worth it. Follow these tips when selecting needles, thread, seams, hems and more. With practice, you'll get comfortable sewing rib knits for all kinds of stylish, comfy garments. Share your favorite tips below for getting great results when sewing with rib knit fabrics!

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FAQs

What is rib knit fabric?

Rib knit fabric is a stretchy, lightweight knitted material that has a distinctive vertical ribbed texture. It is created by knitting alternating columns of ribs and wales, which gives rib knit its signature elasticity and texture.

Why is sewing rib knit fabric tricky?

The vertical rib structure makes rib knits prone to running and getting pulled out of shape. The ribs can get distorted by needles, pressure, and stretching. So rib knits require special handling when sewing to prevent damage.

What needles should you use for rib knit fabric?

Always use ballpoint or stretch needles when sewing rib knits. The rounded tips avoid piercing and snagging the knitted ribs. Regular sharp needles can cause runs and holes.

How do you sew a hem on rib knit fabric?

Rib knit hems should be topstitched rather than blind hemmed. Topstitching keeps the ribbing flat and prevents waviness. Use a twin needle for a professional look. Be sure to hem knits before washing to prevent ravelling.

Should you use steam when sewing rib knits?

Avoid using steam on rib knits as the intense heat can relax fibers and flatten the ribbed texture. For pressing seams, use a press cloth and rely on finger pressing instead of ironing.